Most items from Spuhr are marked with a model number and a batch number. When ordering please refer to the model numbers.
Scope mounts are marked with a model number consisting of two letters followed by four digits. However, there are three exceptions to this rule where there is a total of five digits as well as some models featuring a suffix.
The batch numbers consist of four letters. Old batch numbers consisted of a single letter followed by four numbers; for example M-1204 or M12/04, where the numbers indicate year and month.
The two letters identify the type/firearm/rail the mount is designed for: SA - Scope mount Accuracy International (11mm dovetail) SP - Scope mount Picatinny SS - Scope mount Sauer (for Sauer SSG and STR rifles) ST - Scope mount TRG (17 mm dovetail) SR - Scope Rings (separate rings for Picatinny rail)
The first digit identifies tube diameter: 3 - 30 mm tube 4 - 34 mm tube 5 - 35 mm tube 6 - 36 mm tube 7 - 40 mm tube
Note: The SP-61602 and SP-41808 feature two digits for tilt: 16, indicating a tilt of 16 MIL/55 MOA, and 18, indicating 18 MIL/61.8 MOA.
The third digit is for special versions: 1 - Cantilever mount 2 - Extended cantilever mount 3 - Short rear top cover for the S&B Ultra Short
The fourth digit identifies height: 1 - 30 mm / 1.18" 2 - 38 mm / 1.50" 4 - 48 mm / 1.73" 6 - 34 mm / 1.35" 8 - 44 mm / 1.73"
Note: The height is always measured from the top of the rail to the centerline of the optics. On a tilted mount the measurement is made at the back plane of the rear ring.
B suffix Some mounts feature a B suffix following the model number. In the ISMS line this indicates an extra-long mount for scopes with extended length erector housings, such as the U.S. Optics TPAL and the NightForce B.E.A.S.T. ... See MoreSee Less
There is nothing worse than suddenly realizing your scope mount has come loose in the field and you've lost your zero. Quality scope mounts like the Spuhr ABSeekins Precision or Badger Ordnance mounts that are properly torqued down go a long way towards preventing that from happening. A cheap back up is to use a paint marker and index all the screws on your mount. As soon as something comes loose you'll have a visual indication that there's a problem. Placing a mark on the body of the scope also allows you to identify where the scope was mounted when it was level and at the proper eye relief. This comes in handy if you end up in a situation where you need to turn the mount around. Ask me how I know...
Some shooters prefer not to paint their scopes during classes and I completely respect that, when you've paid upwards of $2500.00 for a scope most guys don't want to paint little red lines all over it. To each their own, personally I'll take the added insurance and peace of mind that I get with indicators like paint markers. Besides I don't believe in safe queens and scars add character.
We have the worlds most comprehensive line of tactical scope mounts; it currently spans about 45 different models of various heights, tilts, lengths and ring dimensions. We have therefore compiled this short guide to help you choose the right mount for your needs.
PICATINNY OR DIRECT MOUNT?
The first obvious question is if the mount should be a Picatinny mount (models beginning with SP) or a direct attachment mount such as our line of ISMS mounts for Accuracy International (SA), Sako TRG/Tikka (ST), and Sauer SSG (SS.)
The main reason for using a direct mount is to allow a stronger and lower positioning of the rifle scope. If there’s no other need for a Picatinny rail we generally recommend direct mounts on these rifles.
The height of our mounts is always measured from the top of the rail to the center of the scope. In the case of a tilted mount the measurement is made at the back plane of the rear ring.
So which height do you need? First off you need to know the outer diameter of your objective. Please note that "3-12x56" does not mean that the scope has an outer objective diameter of 56 mm - only that the objective lens is 56 mm in diameter. Different scopes have different outer diameters for the same lens diameters and it's not uncommon that different models from the same manufacturer feature different outer diameters even if the lens diameter is the same.
Take the measurement above and divide it by two (2) to get the theoretical minimum height required if the optics will be mounted onto a flat rail that extends to and/or past the objective bell. This theoretical minimum height is theoretical for a reason. If the objective has a 62 mm outer diameter and you choose a 31 mm high mount the objective will be in contact with the rail. You will therefore need to add to the theoretical minimum height to get the practical minimum height.
So how much do you need to add? That depends on your personal preference and on what kind of lens caps etc., you want to use. Also, if you want to use a tilted mount/base you will need to add additional clearance.
If you intend to mount the optics onto a bolt action rifle with Picatinny base you can often use a lower mount than the theoretical minimum height above. Just subtract the height of the base from the theoretical minimum height mentioned above. Depending on barrel contour you might be able to go even lower. But don't forget to leave some clearance for lens caps and/or sunshades!
Tilted mounts are necessary when shooting at very long distances. We generally recommend as little tilt as possible as the tilt really does nothing to improve the picture quality. In most cases 6-9 MIL (20-30 MOA) will have no negative impact on picture quality while a greater tilt can lead to problems.
To allow for the greatest available range of adjustment choose a mount with a tilt that is half of the scope’s range of elevation. For example Schmidt & Bender 5-25x56 have a maximum elevation adjustment of 26 MIL (93 MOA,) you should therefore choose a mount with 13 MIL (45 MOA) in tilt. Doing so assures that you are able to adjust the sight out to very long distances.
However when mounted in this extreme elevation it’s common to experience optical defects such as an oval picture etc. We therefore recommend that when fitting a large elevation scope (such as 26 MIL/93 MOA) on a .308 rifle that will only be used out to 1000 meters, to choose a 6 MIL/20 MOA tilt as it’s more than sufficient for that use.
NIGHT VISION/THERMAL COMPATIBILITY
When combining the scope with a clip-on system such as PVS22 or NSV 80, to name a few, the height of the mount is not important. Also the instrument doesn’t have to be perfectly in line with the scope.
If we have an offset of 10 mm in height betwen the primary optic and the NV clip-on the change in point of impact will be 10 mm on 100 meters as well as 10 mm on 300 and 1000 meters; thus the point of impact change is fully parallell.
Therefore it’s often unneccesary to have extremely high mounts just to facilitate in-line mounting of a clip-on systems. Various systems allow varying degrees of angular difference. A common maximum angular difference is 2 degrees. If you do want a perfect alignment we do offer the A-700 Clip-On Adapter that will fit onto any of our SP-***1 and SP-***2 mounts.
Please consult the manufacturer of the thermal device before you make expensive alterations to your gear.
Ulf Lindroth and Thomas Haugland have made an excellent video about long range shooting. Three things to take away: 1. Norway is scenic as hell! 2. These gentlemen know how to shoot. 3. They have good taste when it comes to gear. ;-)
This is one of the nicest shooting videos we've ever seen. Set in the scenic Fjordland of northern Norway, this high-quality 15-minute video is part Nat Geo travelog, part ballistics lesson, part gear review. We wish we had the opportunity to join Ulf Lindroth and Thomas Haugland on their remarkable…